Things to Do in Laois: The Midlands' Most Underrated Adventure Hub

The best things to do in Laois are the Rock of Dunamase, the gardens and mansion at Emo Court, and a walk in the Slieve Bloom Mountains. It's the only landlocked Leinster county that touches every one of its neighbours, which makes it an easy, crowd-free day out from almost anywhere in the midlands.

Laois (say it "leesh") sits dead centre on the Dublin to Limerick line, so most people drive straight through it. That's their loss. You get Norman ruins, Georgian parkland and a proper mountain range here, and you rarely have to share any of them. Here's how a local would spend the day.

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Must-See Attractions in Laois

Rock of Dunamase

This ruined hilltop fortress, a few minutes east of Portlaoise on the N80, is the one to lead with. The crag was a fortified settlement as far back as the 9th century, then passed into Norman hands as part of the dowry when Aoife, daughter of the Leinster king Diarmait MacMurrough, married the Norman lord Strongbow, the alliance that helped open Ireland to the Normans. What survives now is a layered castle: a lower gate, an upper barbican and a keep at the summit with a clean 360-degree sweep across the midlands plain. On a clear day you can pick out the Slieve Blooms to the west and the Wicklow hills to the east.

It's free, unstaffed and open all year, which is part of the appeal, you can have the whole hill to yourself on a weekday. Come early or near dusk for the light and the quiet, and wear something with grip, the rock gets slick after rain. Allow about 90 minutes to walk up and take it in properly.

Emo Court and Gardens

A neoclassical mansion designed by James Gandon, the architect behind Dublin's Custom House, set in roughly 250 acres off the M7 near Emo village. The OPW runs guided tours of the domed interior in season, and the grounds, with their lake walk and avenue of giant sequoias, are open year round and free to wander. Do the house tour if it's on, then give yourself a couple of hours for the gardens. Weekdays are quietest.

Slieve Bloom Mountains

Laois shares this ancient range with Offaly, and it's the gentler, emptier alternative to Wicklow. The Ridge of Capard gives you a big view for almost no effort, while the Glenbarrow trail follows the River Barrow up to a waterfall through old oak and bog. Trails are waymarked and graded, so pick to your fitness. Give it a half day at least, and check the forecast, the tops cloud over fast.

Timahoe Round Tower

South of Portlaoise, this 12th-century tower stands close to 30 metres tall and is one of very few in Ireland with a carved Romanesque doorway high up its side. The setting, a quiet green beside a stream, takes ten minutes to take in and is worth the short detour if you're already at Dunamase. There's a heritage centre nearby in the old schoolhouse.

Abbeyleix Bog

A community-saved raised bog with a boardwalk loop of around 8km that floats you out over the moss, sundews and bog cotton. It's flat, family-friendly and genuinely rare, most Irish raised bogs are gone. The Abbeyleix Bog Project runs guided walks in summer if you want the ecology explained. Allow two hours for the full loop, less if you turn back at the viewing point.

Lesser-Known Corners

Once you've done the headline acts, Laois rewards a poke around. Donaghmore Workhouse is a sobering Famine-era site with an agricultural museum attached, seasonal hours so ring ahead. The Heath, a stretch of ancient commonage outside Portlaoise, hides Bronze Age barrows and Iron Age ring forts along short looped circuits. Grantstown Lake and Woods near Ballacolla has a 5km wildlife loop with floating boardwalks over the water, good for an easy hour with kids. And on the Carlow border, the Killeshin Romanesque Doorway survives from a 12th-century church, its carved arch one of the finest of its kind in the country.

Walkers should also know about the Slieve Bloom Way, a roughly 80km waymarked route that loops the range, and the mountain-bike trail network at the same trailheads if two wheels are more your speed. You don't need to do the whole Way, the Glenbarrow and Cadamstown sections give you the best of it in an afternoon.

Make a Day of It With the Kids

Laois punches above its weight for families. Laois Outdoor Adventure Centre in Portarlington runs kayaking, archery and high ropes for ages 7+, with a Mini Rangers programme for the 4 to 6s, booking required. Dunmore Woods Fairy Trail outside Durrow is a free 2km loop dotted with handcrafted fairy doors, with activity sheets for small explorers. For a rainy day, Roll 'n' Bowl in Portlaoise has ten-pin bowling, laser tag and soft play under one roof. And Laois Pet Farm in Stradbally pairs a petting farm with an indoor play barn, handy when the weather turns.

Where to Eat and What's On

For lunch, The Pantry in Portlaoise does farm-to-table plates, spelt sourdough and small-batch coffee, a reliable stop if you're basing the day around town. The Merry Mill in Vicarstown is a gluten-free oat farm with its own café, organic and a bit special, worth the detour if anyone in the car eats coeliac. And bookworms should call into Nook & Cranny in Mountmellick for Irish literature and a nod to the town's famous Mountmellick whitework embroidery.

If you're staying over, Abbeyleix and Durrow both have heritage-town character and make a quieter base than Portlaoise, with the Slieve Blooms an easy reach the next morning. Booking ahead is wise on Electric Picnic weekend in September, when beds for miles around Stradbally vanish.

The county's calendar is anchored by Electric Picnic, the country's biggest music festival, which takes over Stradbally Hall each September. Earlier in the year, the vintage Gordon Bennett Classic Car Rally winds through the back roads in June, and autumn brings the Durrow Scarecrow Festival, a genuinely odd and lovely small-town event. Dates shift year to year, so check the official listing before you set off.

Getting There

Portlaoise is about 90 minutes from Dublin on the M7, or under an hour by Irish Rail on the Dublin to Cork and Dublin to Limerick lines. From there the Rock of Dunamase, Emo Court and Timahoe are all within a 20-minute drive, and the Slieve Blooms about 30 to 40 minutes west. You'll want a car to link the rural sites.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Laois best known for? The Rock of Dunamase, a Norman hilltop fortress, and Electric Picnic, Ireland's biggest music festival, which is held at Stradbally Hall each September.

How do you pronounce Laois? It's said "leesh," one syllable, rhyming with "fleece."

Is Laois worth visiting? Yes, especially if you want Norman ruins, Georgian gardens and real mountain walks without the crowds you'd hit in Wicklow.

How long do you need in Laois? A full day covers the Rock of Dunamase, Emo Court and a short Slieve Bloom walk. Two days lets you add the bog, the kids' attractions and a proper hill route.

Planning the wider region? See our guides to the best hiking trails in Laois and things to do in neighbouring Offaly, which shares the Slieve Bloom range.

Sources and further reading: Slieve Bloom on the Rock of Dunamase, Heritage Ireland on Emo Court, and the Abbeyleix Bog Project.

More great Irish days out

Heading further afield? A couple of Ireland's most-booked experiences, all an easy trip from Leinster:

Guinness Storehouse, Dublin. The St James's Gate tour finishes with a pint in the Gravity Bar and its rooftop views over the city. Book a time slot ahead, it sells out at weekends.

Cliffs of Moher day tour from Dublin. A full day out to the Atlantic coast and the Burren, with Galway on the way. A good one-off big day without the driving.

This guide contains affiliate links. If you book through them we may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you.

Where to stay in Laois

Making a night of it? Browse hotels, guesthouses and places to stay in Laois:

See places to stay in Laois on Expedia

Heritage sites in Laois

Laois has 2,216 recorded archaeological monuments, and 2 are set up to visit. See the historic sites in Laois worth visiting →

Walking trails in Laois

Laois has 28 waymarked walking trails on the national register, graded and mapped. See the walking trails in Laois worth lacing up for →

Nature reserves in Laois

Laois has 4 nature reserves open to the public. See the wild places worth visiting in Laois →

Historic buildings in Laois

Laois has 692 recorded NIAH buildings, 26 of them rated of National or International importance, from Georgian houses and churches to bridges and mills. See the historic buildings in Laois worth seeking out →

Top things to do in Laois

Rock of Dunamase, Spectacular views of the surrounding countryside make the towering Rock of Dunamase a place of strategic importance.

Ballintubbert Gardens & House, Charmingly framed within a picturesque valley between the village of Stradbally and the town of Athy, Ballintubbert has a rich history in the heart of County Laois with wonderful literary and theatrical associations.

Dunmore Country School Kitchen Garden and Natural Beekeeping Classes , Encourages students to reconnect with nature while learning sustainable practices.

Monicknew Woods, Set in a valley typical of the deeply incised glens of Slieve Bloom, in County Laois.

Gardens at Castle Durrow, Found in Durrow, County Laois, Castle Durrow is one of Ireland’s most luxurious country house hotels.

Heywood Gardens, Completed in 1912, and consist 50 acres of gardens, lakes, woodland and architectural features.

Mountmellick Embroidery & Heritage Museum, Nestled at the foothills of the Slieve Bloom Mountains, Mountmellick in County Laois was once known as the little Manchester of Ireland, due to the presence of a large and diverse industrial base which included flax and cotton mills.

Timahoe Round Tower, Near the village of Timahoe, in a broad fertile valley in County Laois, stands the Timahoe Round Tower, a stunning example of 12th century carved stonework.

What's on

Nourish & Flow Festival
Fri 14 August · Ballykilcavan Brewery · Festival

Events & attractions: Fáilte Ireland Open Data (failteireland.ie), CC BY 4.0.